Suited for lifestyle and home dwelling motivation, this ideal visually-stunning coffee table book details the beach bungalows, cabins, trailers and homes that surfers retreat into after a long day in the water. Radical Reads: 10 Best Surf Books. Time will run fast, and you won't even notice the passing of time. Surfers have a hard time stomaching a standard work schedule. The book is exciting precisely because it’s rather rough and amateurish—not quite a detective story, not quite a literary meditation on the thrill of surfing, it’s fundamentally a predictable type of bildungsroman. The ocean and water sports play an important role in the lives of Australian young and old. The Complete Book of Surfing by Lee Wardlaw. ©2020 Hiconsumption LLC. In a country that’s still coming to terms with xenophobia spurred by upheavals like the 2005 Cronulla Race Riots, Blue looks at social issues that all Australians, both surfers and non, confront daily. A worldwide phenomenon, what we have here is a desire for that beach-infused lifestyle adjacent to a world-class break to call your own. More of a memoir of obsession than an autobiography, this Pulitzer-Prize-winning work of nonfiction is William Finnegan’s magnum opus to the surfing world. Know the explanation behind waves, winds, water temperatures, tidal swings, etc. , that highlight the darker aspects of surf culture. HiConsumption was established by gearheads for gearheads as a modern day men’s lifestyle publication, uncovering the greatest products in adventure, tech, gear, automotive, and style. Because nothing compares to the competition brought on by an all-out bidding war. His journey takes him on a roller coaster ride of highs, lows, seduction, and sadistic intentions by the local surf gangs in true noir fashion. A book that reveals the surprising true story of how an oceanographic meteorologist worked on wave forecasting for the planned Allied Invasion of Normandy. What is a backwash wave and how does it form? For example, knowing how and why the single fin era evolved to the thruster fin system will definitely make you rethink your daily fin setup. Beginning his story in and around Hawaii, Finnegan – an aspiring writer with a thirst for adventure – traverses the globe in search of perfect waves, a meaning to his existence, and subject matter for his writing. Booktopia - Buy Surfing books online from Australia's leading online bookstore. For a non-surfer, Kohner did a decent job of picking up the appropriate lingo, as well as conveying the excitement of wave-riding. In a country that’s still coming to terms with xenophobia spurred by upheavals like the 2005 Cronulla Race Riots. The Ultimate Walk-In Duck Hunting Gear I Can’t Live Without. Surf books, therefore, are not just a non-fictional escape from reality. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, this is a book all surfers should feature in their home library. The story’s protagonist views surfing as an outlet for his youthful need for danger, fear and discovery, and Winton portrays it all with expert finesse. It features 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations and is widely considered the most comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, and lively history of surfing. You can check out more of his work over at When waves are too small or too big, there's nothing like a cold beer or hot chocolate by the seaside with a good looking surf book in our hands. Learn how to predict when swells will arrive, how big waves will be, and telltale signs of common hazards. Sign up for The Airdrop, our weekly newsletter full of book giveaways, interesting article round-ups and fun event notices! The most detailed surf spot guide ever published. Winton portrays the sport, the ocean and Australia using vivid, and sometimes grim, prose that hit home. For most, including author Daniel Duane himself, the thought of another year at his mundane Berkeley, CA job was too much to handle. These are the rebellious few – stories about dedicated surfers traversing the globe, living a life of reckless abandonment, providing some insight into commercialized surf culture or giving us a first-person perspective into the adrenaline-fueled thrill of big-wave surfing. Features sample workout programs for more demanding maneuvers. Surf books are usually written by surf historians, pro surfers, and surf journalists. , an adolescent turns to surfing as an exciting escape. Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend. Aside from working on Sons of Anarchy, Nunn has written several “surf noir” novels, including Tapping the Source and The Dogs of Winter, that highlight the darker aspects of surf culture. Her exploits at Malibu beach with famous surf icons of the time — Mickey Dora, Terry “Tubesteak” Tracy and Kemp Aaberg — greatly inspired her father’s novel, Gidget. One wild ride and an inside look into the underbelly of a world-renowned beach town, Tapping the Source is quite possibly one of the best surf novels out there. Some attribute the film to the spike in surfing’s popularity during the ‘60s, when the sport grew from a minor pastime practiced by few to a thriving sport enjoyed by thousands on both coasts. Latest. Rather, these salty tomes act as memoirs for those who, in the surfer’s opinion, put the art of traveling and waveriding ahead of other more commonplace principles. It’s what author Allan Weisbecker committed to back in 1966 while in search of a long lost surfing companion who had disappeared into the wildness of Central America. Existential at its core, Breath will not only leave you stoked on the sport, but have you questioning life’s meaning on a grander scale. A great book for those wishing to learn how surfing was first seen by James Cook, back in 1778, and evolved into the 21st century. Learn more on our About section. In Winton’s novel. Surveying literature, art & culture from an altitude of 5,000 feet while traveling at 53 miles per hour. More than the usual surf industry propaganda, books about surfing always have something new to reveal - a secret wave, a hot surf destination, a hidden wave peak, the transformation of coastal regions, wave riding stories, and lives of the surf legends. A good surf book will teach you something that applies to your life. Living abroad in China is like living in Shakespeare’s tragedy. More Hunting. It has lessons for our lives and careers. More than just a testimony of a Mavericks big wave pioneer. These authors penned stories that focus less on the sand and the sex, and more on the unusual characters that are drawn to surfing — a sport that, for much of the 20th century, existed on the fringe of respectable society. Waves are a dynamic force that is often created in open ocean thousands of miles away from the shore and breaks near the coastline. A collection of the best features and most iconic images that made Surfer Magazine, in the last five decades. What followed was the life of a dark prince, culminating in a global FBI hunt for Dora for seven years across the globe and author David Rensin’s several-year journey to uncover the truth about Dora in this one-of-a-kind page turner. Fortunately, surfing has been building an outstanding book legacy through time, and surf publications are released quite frequently. All rights reserved. While the book may not stand the test of time, it’s an iconic piece of surf fiction and important part of the sport’s history. Stefan A. Slater is a freelance writer from Los Angeles. These books are murky, rough and populated with burnouts, thugs and general ne’er-do-wells that are memorably written and brimming with life. Very useful. Thanks for signing up for The Airdrop! Your surfing library should feature the following books: The most important surf book ever published. So, he left his job in pursuit of exploration along the California coastline after moving to Santa Cruz – befriending locals, waxing philosophic on their quest for the perfect wave, and the inherent sense of oneness with nature. Take a look at the best surf forecasting books. These “immigrants” try to fit in but are quickly blamed by locals for ruining the town’s economy. Some attribute the film to the spike in surfing’s popularity during the ‘60s, when the sport grew from a minor pastime practiced by few to a thriving sport enjoyed by thousands on both coasts. It’s important to remember that, in Australia, surfing is something of a national pastime. Simply pick your poison, sit back, and open your mind to this aquatic subculture. Unless you live in a year-round wave-rich part of the world and can get away with not working for a living, odds are time spent out of the water will be greater than time spent jockeying through your local lineup. In his recent novels, , Winslow delves headfirst into Orange County, describing its glitzy beaches, health-nut inclinations, text-speak and vain materialistic sensibilities with biting ease. surfer who’s assigned a case that digs up painful ghosts from his past. SurferToday has selected a small sample of high-quality surfing books. How did surfboards evolve? Many surfers paddle out wearing contact lenses. If you're traveling and surfing never forget this book. The ultimate surfer's guide to strength and conditioning. We'll be seeing you next Thursday. The only graphic novelist on this list, Australian cartoonist and writer Grant created an engaging sci-fi story. These books are murky, rough and populated with burnouts, thugs and general ne’er-do-wells that are memorably written and brimming with life. The 16 Best Fiction Adventure Books Every Outdoor Kid Should Read. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.